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Nicht nur bei uns wars kalt: Erstbegehung von "Passion" WI5+ in Montenegro


08.02.2017

Offtopic aber trotzdem cool: Eisklettern in Montenegro

Diejenigen, die mich (Stefan) kennen, wissen um meine Montenegro-Affinität. Nun haben Freunde aus Montenegro die Gunst des auch in Montenegro kalten Wetters genutzt und zwei schöne Eisfälle im Tara Canyon erstbegangen. Über einen der Eisfälle ("Passion", 150m, WI5+) gibt es nun ein Video, dass wir Euch nicht vorenthalten wollen:

riders.me/ice-climbing-montenegro-passion/


Hier auch noch der Originalbericht von Ivan Lakovic auf Englisch:

"Although Mediterrannean country, its mountains provide the Montenegro almost every aspect of the alpine climbing, while playing with the frozen waterfalls became the part of local scene some fifteen years ago. The most popular, regularly formed ice climbs are located in Komarnica valley and surroundings of village Boan (near the town of Šavnik), as well as in Mora?a and Tara canyons. Unfortunately, they last very shortly due to the closeness of seaside and sudden intrusions of the warm air, but when everything coincided, some of these climbs would have had a significant place even within the most prestigious ice climbing areas anywhere. When December of 2016. and January of 2017. brought the prolonged period of stabile and freezing-cold weather, many of the classic climbs formed and some of the long expected first ascents and repeats have taken place.

A mixed team from Podgorica and Belgrade – Nikola ?uri?, Dušan Brankovi?, Dušan Starinac, Danilo Pot and Ivan Lakovi? – climbed the two biggest frozen waterfalls in Montenegro on Saturday, January 28th. The both are located near the Dobrilovina, village in Tara canyon, by the dirt road towards the Zabojsko lake. Nikola and Ivan made a first ascent of Strast (Passion) WI 5+, 150m in the left, while the two Dušans and Danilo repeated the Mali zec (Little rabbit), WI 4, 150m in the right waterfall (first ascent made only three weeks before by Ivan Lakovi? and Sr?an Le?i?). Weather conditions were almost ideal, with temperatures ranging -12/-5?C. Curently, Strast is the most difficult ice climb in the country, and it’s been climbed in four pitches (P1:WI4, 50m; P2:WI5, 50m; P3:WI5,30m; P4:WI5+,20m). It saw the second ascent after only two days, when fellow climbers Mi?an Cerovi? and ?or?ije Vuji?i? climbed the route and confirmed the grades. Weather conditions were almost ideal, with temperatures ranging -12/-5?C. A crew from Riders.me team recorded these ascents with photos and video."

Text: Ivan Lakovic

Photo & video: Ilija Peric www.riders.me

 


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